I've been surfing since I was 11. I was never good at it, but it never stopped me from having some of the best feelings.
Being in an environment that is not yours, watching the fish passing by, birds swooping down. Once even a porpoise (a species of dolphin) showed its hump almost on my side.
Just imagine the face I made after that.
Another thing that attracts me is the shapes and colors that only can be seen when we are surfing.
The surface of the water can be smooth like a blue quilt being shaken. Wave shapes are seen from new angles. Offshore winds hit the crest and raise a beautiful spray. Sun highlights reflect on the ocean.
Then you get a wave, drop the water wall, ride it, sometimes manage to do a tricky maneuver.
When the wave ends, almost at the beach, and you get off the board, it's hard not to smile from ear to ear.
Or sometimes even give a shout of joy, for having managed to tame nature, even for a few seconds, and with all possible respect for it.